white truffle adventure
12 - 19 November 2021
Scroll down for Day-by-Day Itinerary and Reading Suggestions
Among the pilgrimages we make as food and wine lovers, the pilgrimage to Northern Italy during White Truffle Season ranks high. The season spans from October to January and in November the elements align just perfectly for our deep-dive into truffles and all that goes along with their culture. The temperatures have cooled down and the earthy and rich cuisine is welcome. The wine harvest and vinification are complete, and our growers are available and delighted to consecrate time, taking us through their cellars and coming back to the table after a long and challenging growing season to enjoy conversations around a good meal and a special bottle. We can’t wait for this particular adventure to begin.
MORE PRECIOUS THAN EVER
To achieve the profound earthy scent and taste that makes white truffles so appealing, the soil needs to be moist. With warming temperatures and an exceedingly dry summer in Northern Italy, quantities are decreasing. The dwindled supply accompanied by a demand as strong as ever, have caused prices to sky-rocket to double and in some cases to quadruple the price per ounce. In addition to the climate concerns, there are land worries as the vineyards have expanded into the forests where traditionally truffles are hunted. Deforestation is not a new issue but the lands reserved for truffle cultivation and hunting has eroded further as Barolo wineries increase production.
But the region and its people are as resilient, and as gourmande, as ever.
We are being told: “Carpe Diem: come to Italy and enjoy the truffles.”
And that's what we plan to do with our friends, the passionate breed of truffle hunters. We look forward to walking the forests with them, sitting at their tables, and hearing their stories.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
SUNDAY 12 NOVEMBER
We gather in Milan this morning, at the Malpensa airport or in the city, depending on your preference and prior schedule. We will then head to the luxurious Grand Hotel Iles Des Borromees in Stresa.
After check-in and a light lunch, we will board a boat for a tour of Lago Maggiore and its mysterious islands.
Our first dinner will be at La Cappuccina farmhouse in Cureggio, where Raffaella has been welcoming us for years for local cuisine in a charming, warm farmhouse setting.
MONDAY 13 NOVEMBER
After breakfast at the hotel, we visit with the Rovellotti family, the most important grower in the small but prestigious appellation of Ghemme.
Here we taste the wines, tour the vineyards and walk through the ancient “ricetto”, the walled fortification that protected the public during times of invasion and now houses much of the Rovellotti production.
We depart Ghemme for the cheese caves of Luigi Guffanti, the world-renowned affineur of cheeses.
An explanation of the processes and tour of the cellars precedes a tasting of the cheeses. We return to our home, Grand Hotel Isole Borromeo for a bit of relaxation
Dinner will be in nearby Intra where at the Casera da Eros we will experience an incredible assortment of typical products in a convivial setting
TUESDAY 14 NOVEMBER
After breakfast we will leave in a southerly direction, about an hour's drive will take us to Caluso where we will visit Andrea Bianco's beekeeping company
Andrea and his products, imported to the United States by Neal,will be an incredible discovery, have you ever done a honey tasting...?
We take the short drive to Turin where we check into the hotel NH Collection Piazza Carlina a four star superior of great tradition and style located in the center of Turin in its Renaissance area.
A little relaxation at the hotel's bar or a shopping walk will end the afternoon.
For dinner we will hike to the Consorzio restaurant where Piedmontese cuisine with a refined touch will await us
WEDNESDAY 15 NOVEMBER
Now we immerse ourselves in an urban experience.
Our first visit after breakfast is to the Egyptian Museum for a guided tour of this world-renowned collection. Lunch will follow at the fine table of Farmacia del Cambio where, weather permitting, we will stop for a light meal in one of Turin's most beautiful squares.
A walking tour that reveals the marvelous architecture and history of the city will be in the afternoon,some realax at the hotel will separate us from the evening program.
The dinner will see us at chef Marco Sacco's table in his restaurant Piano 35,which with a Michelin Star overlooks the city from the top floor of one of the tallest buildings in the city, the Intesa San Paolo skyscraper, built by star architect Renzo Piano is a bioclimatic building.
THURSDAY 16 NOVEMBER
After breakfast we will leave the beauty of Turin for a short trip to the south of Piedmont.
The Langhe, part of the UNESCO world heritage site of "Piedmontese viticultural landscapes" will welcome us to discover the three great treasures of this land: the wine, hazelnuts and the white truffle of Alba
Our first stop will be at Tartuflanghe where Stefania and Paolo Montanaro will accompany us on a visit to the family business where we will discover the many possible food transformations of truffles. The visit will continue with a light lunch with the farm's products and an encounter after lunch with a truffle hunter and his dogs… a magical moment that is lost in the thousand-year history of the greatest of Piedmontese traditions.
A short drive brings us to what will be our home for the next three days Relais Villa D'Amelia surrounded by hills and vineyards with an incredible view of the Piedmontese Alps
Some relaxation at the hotel perhaps taking advantage of the beautiful spa with heated pool will precede dinner at the hotel's restaurant the DaMà where the young chef Dennis Cesco will skillfully mix traditional Piedmontese culinary ingredients with modern trends.
FRIDAY 17 NOVEMBER
After breakfast we will head to our first stop in the world of the winemakers who have made Neal's portfolio history, the Brovia family.
We will taste wines including the king of Italian red grapes, Nebbiolo in its most famous version: Barolo. Following the Piedmontese tradition we will blend wines and truffles for a lunch at Osteria 3 Case in Serralunga d'Alba where a superb offering of regional cuisine will be accompanied by a fine wine list
After lunch we will return to the hotel for some rest from the food and wine excursions, a break at the hotel spa or a massage will be perfect to lead us towards the dinner experience
La Madernassa,a Michelin star,where young brothers Giuseppe and Francesco d' Errico will take us on an artistic journey where each dish will be a work of art for the eyes and the palate.
SATURDAY 18 NOVEMBER
Our final day will begin with a walk in the city of Alba, the beating heart of the region. Among the ancient medieval streets, in the shelter of the towers of the city, we will visit the world-recognized Truffle Fair. After this immersion in the world of truffles we will have lunch in one of Neal's favorite restaurants, in the central square of Alba La Piola offers in a vibrant environment the traditional Piedmontese dishes perfectly accompanied by truffles and a wine list that will make our eyes sparkle.
Alberto Zaccarelli of the Figli Luigi Oddero winery will be with us for lunch,at the end he will accompany us for a tour with final tasting at the winery.
After a refreshing stop at the hotel, our last evening will be celebrated in the most Piedmontese way possible. One of the newest growers in Neal's portfolio, the beautiful Nada family will host us in their farmhouse where, in an informal old country setting, we will taste their wines accompanied by real regional cuisine. This evening promises to be a most memorable finale for this incredible journey.
SUNDAY 19 NOVEMBER
On the final morning of this journey, we will have a hearty breakfast before making our way back to Milan for return to the US or other destinations.
Please inform us of your departure plans so that we can assist you with a transfer to the train station, airport, or otherwise.
Please note, this itinerary is subject to slight change due to weather, scheduling conflicts, or other unforeseen circumstances.
Reading Suggestions
Reflections of a Wine Merchant
Neal Rosenthal
Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine
Kerin O’Keefe
Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine 2022
Hugh Johnson
An Unlikely Vineyard: The Education of a Farmer and Her Quest for Terroir
Deirdre Heekin
The Wines and Food of Piemonte
Tom Hyland